How to Install Exclusion Fencing Properly

A rabbit slipping under the fence, a fox finding a loose gate corner, or deer pushing through a weak section can undo a lot of work on a rural property. Knowing how to install exclusion fencing starts with one practical question: what are you trying to keep out? The answer determines the fence height, mesh type, post spacing, ground treatment and gate details.

Exclusion fencing is not simply a standard boundary fence with finer mesh attached. It is a system designed to remove the weak points animals look for - under the fence, through the mesh, over the top and around gates. Get those details right from the start and the fence has a far better chance of protecting pasture, gardens, livestock feed, young trees and valuable improvements.

Start with the animal, not the fence

A fence that works well for rabbits may do very little against deer. A design intended to reduce fox access can fail if the mesh is not secured properly at ground level. Before ordering materials or setting out posts, identify the species causing the problem and walk the affected area.

Look for tracks, droppings, diggings, rub marks, damaged vegetation and regular access routes. Pay close attention to gullies, creek crossings, timbered edges, old fence lines and corners where animals can move without being easily seen. These spots often need more care than the open, straight runs.

Your goals also matter. A small protected orchard, vegetable area or revegetation plot may justify a fully enclosed, high-specification fence. For a large grazing property, the most sensible approach may be to prioritise pressure points and combine fencing with property management. There is no one exclusion-fence design that suits every block.

Plan the line before installation

The best fence line is not always the shortest one. It needs to be buildable, serviceable and clear of features that create ongoing problems. A line that follows an existing track may be easier to inspect and repair than one pushed through thick scrub or steep country.

Walk the proposed route and mark major changes in direction, rises, hollows, wet areas, gateways and crossings. Check whether machinery, horses, cattle or emergency vehicles will need access. Consider how you will mow or spray along the fence line too. Long grass, fallen branches and accumulated leaf litter can conceal damage and make inspections difficult.

Clear enough vegetation to allow proper post installation and safe access, without opening up more ground than necessary. On sloping sites, plan for changes in grade rather than trying to force the fence to follow the ground in one long, loose run. Low spots deserve particular attention because they are common places for washouts and animal access.

Check boundaries, services and approvals

Confirm the boundary before building on or near it. If the fence is part of a shared boundary, discuss the plan with the neighbouring owner early, especially where height, gates or cost-sharing may be involved. It is much easier to agree on the alignment before posts go in.

Also check for underground services, drainage infrastructure and any local requirements that may apply to your property. Around waterways, bushland and significant vegetation, the preferred fence line may need adjusting. A practical site assessment can identify these issues before they become expensive changes halfway through the job.

Build a strong framework first

A well-built exclusion fence relies on a solid framework. Strainer assemblies at ends, corners, gateways and major changes of direction carry the load. If these assemblies move, lean or lack bracing, the mesh tension will not stay consistent.

Set strainer posts deep enough for the soil conditions and expected load. Rocky ground, soft ground and wet areas all require a different approach. Braces should be installed in the direction of pull, with a properly tensioned wire or suitable bracing arrangement to stop the assembly racking under tension.

Intermediate posts keep the fence line upright and support the mesh, but they are not a substitute for sound strainers. Post spacing depends on terrain, mesh weight, wind exposure and the animal being excluded. Closer spacing is often needed on undulating ground, around curves and where stock may lean on the fence.

For some jobs, steel star pickets are a practical choice for intermediates alongside appropriate end assemblies. Yarra Valley Rural Fencing currently has selected 1650 mm and 1800 mm star pickets available for direct purchase while stocks last, but the right size and spacing should still be based on the fence design rather than what happens to be on hand.

Choose mesh and height for the job

Mesh needs to be strong enough for the pressure it will receive and small enough to prevent the target animal passing through. Smaller apertures are commonly needed near the bottom of rabbit exclusion fencing, while deer fencing generally requires considerably more height and a structure that resists impact and leaning.

Do not assume a taller fence is automatically better. Extra height adds load to posts, strainers and gates, particularly in exposed country. It can also make installation and future repairs more demanding. The right design balances exclusion performance with the terrain, budget and long-term maintenance the property owner can realistically manage.

Roll out mesh along the prepared line without dragging it through sharp rocks, branches or mud. Keep it aligned before tensioning. Once damaged or twisted, mesh can be difficult to pull straight and may leave permanent weak points.

Use a proper mesh tensioning method rather than pulling individual wires unevenly. The finished fence should be firm and even, following the ground closely without being so tight that it distorts posts or leaves no allowance for normal movement. Secure the mesh to posts with suitable fasteners, taking care not to crush or cut the wire coating.

Stop animals going underneath

Ground-level security is where many exclusion fences succeed or fail. Rabbits and other digging animals will test loose edges quickly. If the fence sits above uneven ground, every gap becomes an invitation.

There are two common approaches: burying mesh below ground level, or creating an outward-facing apron secured along the surface. The better option depends on soil, rock, drainage, the target animal and how easily the fence line can be maintained.

A buried section can be effective, but it needs enough depth and sound backfilling to avoid exposed edges later. In rocky ground, excavation may be slow and costly. An apron can be more practical where digging is difficult, provided it is pinned securely, remains covered where needed and is not allowed to lift under vegetation or erosion.

At creeks, drains and low points, avoid simply leaving a loose section that will wash open in the first heavy rain. These areas may need reinforced mesh, carefully shaped ground treatment or a purpose-built crossing solution. The aim is to maintain exclusion while allowing water to move safely.

Gates are part of the fence system

A well-built fence can be defeated by one poorly fitted gate. Gates need to match the opening, hang squarely and close without dragging. More importantly, the gap beneath and beside the gate needs the same attention as the rest of the fence line.

Use a latch that closes positively and can be operated reliably by everyone using the property. If a gateway is used frequently by vehicles or machinery, allow enough room for safe turning and avoid placing it in a boggy hollow. Consider whether an additional pedestrian access point could reduce wear on the main gate.

For farm access, 12 ft / 3.6 m and 14 ft / 4.2 m rural farm gates are currently available from Yarra Valley Rural Fencing while stocks last. Gate selection should suit the opening, traffic and the exclusion detail required around it, rather than being treated as an afterthought.

Add electric protection where it makes sense

Electric outriggers or offset wires can improve the performance of some exclusion fences by discouraging animals from climbing, leaning on or digging at the mesh. They can be particularly useful where livestock pressure is also a concern.

They are not a replacement for proper construction. An electric wire will not fix loose mesh, poor strainers or gaps under a gate. It also needs a correctly installed energiser, earthing system and regular checking. Keep vegetation off electric wires, as grass and branches can reduce performance.

Inspect early and maintain often

The first few weeks after installation are the best time to find faults. Walk the fence after rain, wind and periods of animal activity. Check corners, drains, gate areas and any point where the fence changes direction or ground level.

Look for digging, lifted aprons, sagging mesh, broken fasteners, washouts and branches resting on the fence. Repair small issues promptly. A minor gap is cheaper to fix than a section that has been pushed over, undermined or damaged repeatedly by animals using the same route.

Exclusion fencing works best when it is treated as a working part of the property, not a job that can be forgotten once installed. A carefully planned fence, built to suit the animal and maintained through the seasons, gives you the best chance of keeping the right things in and the unwanted visitors out.